Venturing Deeper Into Japan: Nikko

Better (Blog) Late Than Never

Life has really been ahead of me lately, and as fast as Rob was home mid deployment for a short week in September, he left and now we are nearing the end of this year's 6 month cruise (only to have him leave for another 2-3 weeks, but that's getting off the subject). During that break, Rob and I managed to escape the institutionalized routine of living on base and free ourselves from the at times overwhelming concrete jungle of Tokyo. We try to make it a point to enjoy our time in Japan and explore much of the country while also spending some quality and precious family time together, and so we decided to take a 3 day trip to Nikko, Japan.

Mystical Japan

Rob and I decided to drive to Nikko, which was only 3 hours. The drive was quick, but for anyone who knows Japan, the tolls were expensive. It was 4600 yen one way which works out to be around $45. It was worth it though as we were able to see Tokyo Tower disappear in our review mirror as we approached beautiful green mountains. The drive was wonderful. The weather was overcast and rainy, but Rob and I agreed that the weather only added to the charm of Nikko. As we approached a village tucked into a mountain, we saw several bakeries and shops lining a main road. As we reached the end of the main street, the road crossed over a fast flowing river and then we saw the iconic red bridge that crossed it. The bridge is only open to foot traffic, and for a small fee, you can take in the views from this bridge, but Rob and I enjoyed our view with the bridge in it. The Shinkyo Bridge is the entrance to the amazing park of shrines that call Nikko home. Unlike may shrines that Rob and I have seen in Japan, the shrines here were in a national park and far from any cities and building. Walking through this area was much like walking back in time.

Traditional Japanese Accommodation

Rob and I are not much for getting sucked into tourist traps and love going off the beaten path so we kept this in mind when trying to find lodging. Trip Adviser has become a great source in finding what we are looking for when traveling, and it served us very well on this trip. We found under "hostels", a Japanese cottage for about $160/night. By Japanese standards, this is cheap, and about $100 less than what your typical hotel room would cost in Nikko. While this cottage was listed under hostels, I will be the first to say that this would be a booming bed and breakfast charging upwards to $400/night in the states. The reviews were ALL 5 stars and there was not a single complaint on Trip Adviser, so we decided to take a shot and we are glad we did. Nikko Cottage Fu-Sha was a great place to base our Nikko adventures from. We were greeted by the owner of the cottage, who happened to live across the street. The cottage was located in the perfect spot. It was away from the hotels, and hidden on some side street along a creek. The area was really secluded and it seemed as if it was where a lot of locals lived.

 

The owner showed us into the cottage, which was a traditional Japanese house. It had an entrance, much like a "mud room" where you take your shoes off, then you stepped up into the house. The house had a small kitchen, a front room, a dining room, a larger bedroom and a bathroom. There were no doors, but only sliding partitions and the rooms had tatami mats. In the bedroom, the owner set up traditional Japanese floor futons. At first glance they seemed uncomfortable, but I assure you, they were like sleeping on a cloud. The dining table was meant to be sat at on the floor. The bathroom had those amazing Japanese toilets, and if you have ever been to Japan, you know what I am talking about. The owner stocked our kitchen with fresh bread and pastries from the local bakery and some fruit, coffee and juice. She sat down with us to show us some maps of the area and give her suggestions. Because of the weather, she even offered umbrellas. The personal touch and Japanese ambiance was incredible.

Exploring

 We were only in Nikko for a short time, but we managed to see the highlights of the area. Within walking distance from our cottage, we hiked along the river to the Abyss, which is a trail going through a gorge. It was beautiful and peaceful. The weather caused the trail to be misty and make the air glow. We were the only ones on the trail which made us feel even more secluded. The trail was lined with hundred of old statues which Robby thought to be amusing.

After hiking the trail, we loaded ourselves into the van and drove up a mountain for about 30 minutes until we made it to the waterfalls. Nikko has several waterfalls, some touristy and some you can find if you venture into the forest. We enjoyed the views and even though it was September, we had to grab our jackets, as it was quite chilly. The forests were filled with monkeys, and while we didn't see any, you could hear them.

After returning to the village, we decided to hike through the shrines before sunset, and it was perfect. No crowds and the dim lights glowing from the shrines gave our walk a perfect vibe. There were a lot of shrines and part of the national park that we didn't see, but we felt content in what we did see.

We made a few stops in the shops along the main street, and per Rob's request, we made a trip to the bakery where our owner got our breakfast at. It was delicious!

 

Nikko

We found Nikko to be a great place to visit throughout the year. The time of year we went made for lush green forests, misty air and a mystical ambiance. We were told that in the Fall, Nikko is cold, clear air and the fall colors are breathtaking. Just as unique, winter gives Nikko a winter wonderland look with its snow capped trees and iced over creeks. If ever we are in need of an escape of the hustle and bustle of Tokyo, we are sure to venture back to Nikko no matter the time of year.